PCH

When I first moved to Malibu, I had recurring nightmares about the PCH. It is a narrow, curving highway between the mountain and the ocean with little room for error. At first, it required me to give it serious attention. Gradually I grew more comfortable and today I take pleasure in driving it.

There are few highways from which you can see dolphins jumping, or a blue heron standing on a rock or even the occasional whale spouting. I always make sure to check out the Malibu Lagoon where Malibu Creek meets the ocean. Most days it is crowded with all sorts of birds and sometimes bird watchers. On the hill overlooking the lagoon is the Serra Retreat with a very large cross standing watch.

The Adamson House which was the home of the original founders of Malibu is sometimes advertising for docents or for reservations for its Mother's Day Tea. I keep thinking I will go but am always too late to call. Then you reach Surfrider Beach, one of the best surfing beaches in the world. On a busy day, the ocean looks as congested as the PCH on a bad day. On a quiet day, a couple of paddlers standing on boards will be enjoying the water.

The Pier is now restored with a couple of restaurants. And next door the ocean view is completely eclipsed with a construction fence and large pieces of equipment. After several years of blight, the two large restaurants are being rebuilt by Larry Ellison, one for Nobu and one for Puck. Malibu will be getting on the foodie map when they open. And finally a good restaurant with ocean views -- actually two good restaurants with ocean views.

Then the houses are bumper to bumper for quite a distance leaving one to contemplate who is cleaning up the highway based on the signage. A very irritating moment is when you come to an open lot at Big Rock and CalTrans has made it a "View Spot" with railings and benches that block the view from the PCH!

Then back to the ocean and the entire coastline opens up to view Santa Monica, Long Beach and Palos Verdes. On a clear day there's Catalina.

There are two really great moments on the PCH as I head home. The first is when you emerge from the tunnel at the end of the 10 Freeway and hit the PCH. You see the ocean and feel like you are home. If it's a clear day and you can see all the way to Point Dume -- what a view. I always drive in the lane closest to the ocean no matter the direction or the traffic. It's a pleasure to roll your window down and hear the waves.

Surfers do cause traffic problems when the waves are really good -- first at Topanga and then at Will Rogers. If you are not careful, you may get mooned as the surfers seem to feel liberated and shed their wet suits on the side of the road.

When I come over the hill and catch a close-up of Point Dume, especially with a dazzling sunset behind, I always think that I live in one of the most beautiful spots on earth. I am jealous of Cher's site -- she has the absolute greatest views from all windows -- but not of her Gothic looking house. It is definitely not my taste.

The PCH really only scares me now when it is pouring rain. One night as I drove home a giant boulder rolled down the hill and slammed into the passenger side of my car. It was a torrential downpour and I just couldn't see it coming.