Visitors come from all over the world to drive the PCH along the Big Sur coast. No question that it is a beautiful drive. But the drive from Point Dume to Point Hueneme is equally beautiful for my money. And it's a road less traveled.
I drove it yesterday for the first time in a while and marveled again at the breathtaking vistas of sea and cliffs. The road hugs rugged cliffs on one side and drops off to rocky beaches on the other. Even though there were bursts of rain, indomitable surfers were undeterred at County Line Beach. But Neptune's Net, normally overrun with bikers and others at noon, had only a few people sitting on its patio.
Unlike most other weekends, Pt. Mugu State Park was empty. The rock climbers were not out at Mugu Rock, the huge rock on the ocean side that was created when the PCH was cut through the rocky cliffs. No one was sliding down the Great Sand Dune on the land side.
The coreopsis plants were blooming in fits and starts all along the highway. Sometimes there was a broad swath of yellow blooms but, more often, there was a solitary plant or two popping out of the hillsides.
Right before Pt. Mugu Naval Base, I turned off on Los Posas Road and entered a different world of green fields stretching for miles in either direction. The green hills that run along the southeast looked soft and inviting. When it rains in Southern California, beauty explodes.
It is always surprising to see signs for Tractor Crossing less than 30 minutes from my house. Since it was Sunday and raining off and on, no farmers were out on tractors and no pickers were in the fields. I drove slowly admiring the neat rows of fields where the luscious strawberries and green veggies sprout and find their way to homes all over the US. It was good to breathe the rainswept air and the clean fragrance of the fields.
It's seven miles or so from the PCH to Highway 101 when you are hard hit by civilization again.
Monday, January 31, 2011
Friday, January 28, 2011
PCH
When I first moved to Malibu, I had recurring nightmares about the PCH. It is a narrow, curving highway between the mountain and the ocean with little room for error. At first, it required me to give it serious attention. Gradually I grew more comfortable and today I take pleasure in driving it.
There are few highways from which you can see dolphins jumping, or a blue heron standing on a rock or even the occasional whale spouting. I always make sure to check out the Malibu Lagoon where Malibu Creek meets the ocean. Most days it is crowded with all sorts of birds and sometimes bird watchers. On the hill overlooking the lagoon is the Serra Retreat with a very large cross standing watch.
The Adamson House which was the home of the original founders of Malibu is sometimes advertising for docents or for reservations for its Mother's Day Tea. I keep thinking I will go but am always too late to call. Then you reach Surfrider Beach, one of the best surfing beaches in the world. On a busy day, the ocean looks as congested as the PCH on a bad day. On a quiet day, a couple of paddlers standing on boards will be enjoying the water.
The Pier is now restored with a couple of restaurants. And next door the ocean view is completely eclipsed with a construction fence and large pieces of equipment. After several years of blight, the two large restaurants are being rebuilt by Larry Ellison, one for Nobu and one for Puck. Malibu will be getting on the foodie map when they open. And finally a good restaurant with ocean views -- actually two good restaurants with ocean views.
Then the houses are bumper to bumper for quite a distance leaving one to contemplate who is cleaning up the highway based on the signage. A very irritating moment is when you come to an open lot at Big Rock and CalTrans has made it a "View Spot" with railings and benches that block the view from the PCH!
Then back to the ocean and the entire coastline opens up to view Santa Monica, Long Beach and Palos Verdes. On a clear day there's Catalina.
There are two really great moments on the PCH as I head home. The first is when you emerge from the tunnel at the end of the 10 Freeway and hit the PCH. You see the ocean and feel like you are home. If it's a clear day and you can see all the way to Point Dume -- what a view. I always drive in the lane closest to the ocean no matter the direction or the traffic. It's a pleasure to roll your window down and hear the waves.
Surfers do cause traffic problems when the waves are really good -- first at Topanga and then at Will Rogers. If you are not careful, you may get mooned as the surfers seem to feel liberated and shed their wet suits on the side of the road.
When I come over the hill and catch a close-up of Point Dume, especially with a dazzling sunset behind, I always think that I live in one of the most beautiful spots on earth. I am jealous of Cher's site -- she has the absolute greatest views from all windows -- but not of her Gothic looking house. It is definitely not my taste.
The PCH really only scares me now when it is pouring rain. One night as I drove home a giant boulder rolled down the hill and slammed into the passenger side of my car. It was a torrential downpour and I just couldn't see it coming.
There are few highways from which you can see dolphins jumping, or a blue heron standing on a rock or even the occasional whale spouting. I always make sure to check out the Malibu Lagoon where Malibu Creek meets the ocean. Most days it is crowded with all sorts of birds and sometimes bird watchers. On the hill overlooking the lagoon is the Serra Retreat with a very large cross standing watch.
The Adamson House which was the home of the original founders of Malibu is sometimes advertising for docents or for reservations for its Mother's Day Tea. I keep thinking I will go but am always too late to call. Then you reach Surfrider Beach, one of the best surfing beaches in the world. On a busy day, the ocean looks as congested as the PCH on a bad day. On a quiet day, a couple of paddlers standing on boards will be enjoying the water.
The Pier is now restored with a couple of restaurants. And next door the ocean view is completely eclipsed with a construction fence and large pieces of equipment. After several years of blight, the two large restaurants are being rebuilt by Larry Ellison, one for Nobu and one for Puck. Malibu will be getting on the foodie map when they open. And finally a good restaurant with ocean views -- actually two good restaurants with ocean views.
Then the houses are bumper to bumper for quite a distance leaving one to contemplate who is cleaning up the highway based on the signage. A very irritating moment is when you come to an open lot at Big Rock and CalTrans has made it a "View Spot" with railings and benches that block the view from the PCH!
Then back to the ocean and the entire coastline opens up to view Santa Monica, Long Beach and Palos Verdes. On a clear day there's Catalina.
There are two really great moments on the PCH as I head home. The first is when you emerge from the tunnel at the end of the 10 Freeway and hit the PCH. You see the ocean and feel like you are home. If it's a clear day and you can see all the way to Point Dume -- what a view. I always drive in the lane closest to the ocean no matter the direction or the traffic. It's a pleasure to roll your window down and hear the waves.
Surfers do cause traffic problems when the waves are really good -- first at Topanga and then at Will Rogers. If you are not careful, you may get mooned as the surfers seem to feel liberated and shed their wet suits on the side of the road.
When I come over the hill and catch a close-up of Point Dume, especially with a dazzling sunset behind, I always think that I live in one of the most beautiful spots on earth. I am jealous of Cher's site -- she has the absolute greatest views from all windows -- but not of her Gothic looking house. It is definitely not my taste.
The PCH really only scares me now when it is pouring rain. One night as I drove home a giant boulder rolled down the hill and slammed into the passenger side of my car. It was a torrential downpour and I just couldn't see it coming.
Tuesday, January 25, 2011
Coreopsis & Cymbidiums
Malibu is about to burst into color. The torrential rains over the holidays were rough to endure but the pay off is coming. Passing Pt. Dume over the weekend I noted that the giant coreopsis are starting to bloom. By this weekend the point will be blanketed with yellow. It is a dazzling sight and only occurs once a year. The rest of the year the plants are brown and look pretty much like weeds.I have read that the giant coreopsis that we see on Pt. Dume is only found along the coast from Malibu to San Luis Obispo and on the Channel Islands. By far the most glorious display I have seen is on the Point.
The cymbidiums in the pots on my front patio are also just about to burst forth. Long shoots have sprouted that soon will be covered with exotic blooms.
Somehow my cymbidiums are of several different flavors. The hibiscus and cameilla plants are also flowering.
A drive across Kanan Road will soon be fragrant with the flowers from many varieties of wild flowers. I always roll my windows down and inhale the perfumes that the wind brings into my car.
Winter rains mean plenty of beauty along the coast and canyons of Malibu.
Saturday, January 22, 2011
Winter Skies
Malibu winter skies always stop me in my tracks. For some unwelcome reason, I have been waking up every morning at 5 a.m. this week. When I wake, I am annoyed. How does my internal alarm clock know it's 5 and wake me up? The bright side is that I have seen a number of spectacular sunrises. First there's a burst of fiery red that seems to fill the entire sky over the ocean. Then it gradually softens through shades of orange and yellow until it lights up a clean blue sky.
That blue sky is so clear and beautiful. Not a cloud in sight. And it's warm but with a cool breeze. It's most inviting to get Scout and me out for a walk. And, today, Saturday was a perfect day to sit in the back yard and read and now and then throw a tennis ball for the dog. She has never learned -- or perhaps wanted to learn -- to give back the ball in spite of seven years of trying to teach her to "drop it". However, she definitely wants to interrupt any pleasant activity such as reading a book or talking on the phone by dropping a dirty wet tennis ball onto my lap -- and then grabbing it again before I can. It quickly exhausts my interest in tossing the ball.
Winter sunsets are spectacular as well. Again in some of them, like tonight, the sun appears as a ball of fire spreading tentacles of orange and yellow across the sky. One evening it started as red then softened to pink and then melted into lilac as it spread over the ocean, turning the ocean a warm bluish purple. I watched this from my office looking toward the west. When I turned toward the east, the rays of the sunset were reflecting off the towers in downtown, giving them a special hue. Behind them the snow capped mountains sparkled. What an evening to be alive.
It has been a full moon this week. Last night it hung like a giant orange ball low in the sky over the ocean. I had to stop on the drive home to see its reflection in the ocean that was a deep blue, almost black.
Then when I went out at 9:30 to let the horses out of their stalls after their dinners I marveled at the night sky and the many stars I could see. The big dipper was shining right over my driveway. When I get annoyed that I am stuck with the responsibility of taking care of the horses, I walk out on a night like last night and realize they are the reason that bring me out to marvel at the dark skies and its stars.
Now I hear on the news that the rest of the nation is being hit with a fierce winter storm. The temperatures give me a chill just to hear them cited. And for Malibu -- well, it's going to be 75 tomorrow.
No wonder our winter skies are worth savoring.
That blue sky is so clear and beautiful. Not a cloud in sight. And it's warm but with a cool breeze. It's most inviting to get Scout and me out for a walk. And, today, Saturday was a perfect day to sit in the back yard and read and now and then throw a tennis ball for the dog. She has never learned -- or perhaps wanted to learn -- to give back the ball in spite of seven years of trying to teach her to "drop it". However, she definitely wants to interrupt any pleasant activity such as reading a book or talking on the phone by dropping a dirty wet tennis ball onto my lap -- and then grabbing it again before I can. It quickly exhausts my interest in tossing the ball.
Winter sunsets are spectacular as well. Again in some of them, like tonight, the sun appears as a ball of fire spreading tentacles of orange and yellow across the sky. One evening it started as red then softened to pink and then melted into lilac as it spread over the ocean, turning the ocean a warm bluish purple. I watched this from my office looking toward the west. When I turned toward the east, the rays of the sunset were reflecting off the towers in downtown, giving them a special hue. Behind them the snow capped mountains sparkled. What an evening to be alive.
It has been a full moon this week. Last night it hung like a giant orange ball low in the sky over the ocean. I had to stop on the drive home to see its reflection in the ocean that was a deep blue, almost black.
Then when I went out at 9:30 to let the horses out of their stalls after their dinners I marveled at the night sky and the many stars I could see. The big dipper was shining right over my driveway. When I get annoyed that I am stuck with the responsibility of taking care of the horses, I walk out on a night like last night and realize they are the reason that bring me out to marvel at the dark skies and its stars.
Now I hear on the news that the rest of the nation is being hit with a fierce winter storm. The temperatures give me a chill just to hear them cited. And for Malibu -- well, it's going to be 75 tomorrow.
No wonder our winter skies are worth savoring.
Monday, January 17, 2011
THE WILD PARROTS OF PT DUME
Swooping in, squawking furiously and seemingly tumbling instead of flying, the flock of wild parrots arrived again this morning. They are like first graders let out for recess. with their noise, enthusiasm and complete lack of order.
Settling in one of my pine trees and snacking off the pine cones, the birds are well camouflaged, their green and yellow bodies snuggled into tree branches of the same colors. It is only when one or two move to the sycamores lining the driveway that you are certain they are there.
They like to sit in the sycamores and eat their pine cones; perhaps they don't want to share. They also don't like humans to intrude on their dining experience. Twice they have dropped half eaten pine cones on my head. I am positive it was deliberate. They are so territorial that, when they are in residence, the crows abandon their posts in the yard.
When the parrots decide to move on, it's another mad scramble. They somehow communicate which direction to go but they all follow their own GPS systems as they take to the skies.
I hear from others that there is more than one flock of wild parrots in Malibu. My crowd is the Pt. Dume flock.. I don't know where they arrived from. Once I heard that they were part of the bird show at the many years defunct Busch Gardens and had been let go when the gardens closed down. They made their way over the mountains to Malibu where they found paradise and stayed -- like so many of us Bu residents.
However they got here, it is a joy to see them. Even when they arrive with raucous good cheer as the sun rises.
Later as I was tending to the horses, I looked above and saw a flock of geese flying south in perfect formation. Quite a beautiful sight. Just as the parrots are in their hilarious flight.
Settling in one of my pine trees and snacking off the pine cones, the birds are well camouflaged, their green and yellow bodies snuggled into tree branches of the same colors. It is only when one or two move to the sycamores lining the driveway that you are certain they are there.
They like to sit in the sycamores and eat their pine cones; perhaps they don't want to share. They also don't like humans to intrude on their dining experience. Twice they have dropped half eaten pine cones on my head. I am positive it was deliberate. They are so territorial that, when they are in residence, the crows abandon their posts in the yard.
When the parrots decide to move on, it's another mad scramble. They somehow communicate which direction to go but they all follow their own GPS systems as they take to the skies.
I hear from others that there is more than one flock of wild parrots in Malibu. My crowd is the Pt. Dume flock.. I don't know where they arrived from. Once I heard that they were part of the bird show at the many years defunct Busch Gardens and had been let go when the gardens closed down. They made their way over the mountains to Malibu where they found paradise and stayed -- like so many of us Bu residents.
However they got here, it is a joy to see them. Even when they arrive with raucous good cheer as the sun rises.
Later as I was tending to the horses, I looked above and saw a flock of geese flying south in perfect formation. Quite a beautiful sight. Just as the parrots are in their hilarious flight.
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